Friday, 20 April 2012

Listening to the traffic in Hue

After a night of travel including two flights and a slow car trip (we get the ONLY slow driver in the whole of Vietnam) Benita and I made it to Hue. It's so good to be back. I stayed here for three weeks last year and I really love the place. After a rest, a meal and a gin and tonic, went out to teach Benita how to cross the road with all the crazy traffic made up of motor bikes, scooters, bicycles and the odd car. It doesn't seem necessary for the traffic to stick to their side of the road, and it's common to find motor bikes haring towards you on the footpath as well. When crossing, the secret is to move out firmly onto the road, don't dart around, and don't stop or run. Keep eye contact so you can work out where they are going and never ever argue with the trucks because they ALWAYS have right of way. If your courage fails you, attach yourself to the nearest Vietnamese person and cross when they do. Also, zebra crossings are a suggestion only, as are traffic lights and signs. Don't expect them to be obeyed, and always look both ways frequently! Easy!
I love the smell of Hue and at this time of the year, the warmth at dusk (however it can be horribly hot in the full summer) and of course the ever present sound of chaotic and vibrant life. The horns of the traffic never stop, even late at night, and no walk would be complete without being asked "Where you from, oh Australia....Sydney, Kangaroo!"  The cyclo drivers are persistent but good natured and friendly. The little kids call out hello as you walk past and there are so many tailors shops ("Madam, you look for something?").
Our hotel is brilliant, right by the bridge and we have the window open and I'm watching the traffic go past as the bridge lights change colour from white to yellow to pink to green to blue. Just beautiful. I can even see the flag of the Citadel, which we go to tomorrow as my friend Benita hasn't been here before.
We went today to the Mandarin Cafe and looked at the beautiful photos taken by Mr Cu, which you can browse through and buy from postcard size up. I bought quite a few last time, and particularly love the ones of the elderly Vietnamese, who have such beautiful and expressive faces.
I stopped in at the Orchid Hotel where I stayed last year and LOVED it. They have the nicest staff anywhere on the planet and I was hoping to stay there again, but through my own fault missed their email in reply to my request. I feel so guilty, and felt even worse when I popped in and was given a huge hug. Anyway, if you like smaller more intimate hotels with exceptional staff, stay there (no pool however).
Tomorrow we do the Citadel and some tombs, which is always an interesting day, then Sunday we go to Hoi An to begin work Monday. Time for some sleep
Sandie

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